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SECTION TEST - ACADEMIC READING
(Time: 60 minutes)

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Passage 1

Trends in the Indian fashion and textile industries

During the 1950s, the Indian fashion scene was exciting, stylish and very graceful. There were no celebrity designers or models, nor were there any labels that were widely recognised. The value of a garment was judged by its style and fabric rather than by who made it. It was regarded as perfectly acceptable, even for high-society women, to approach an unknown tailor who could make a garment for a few rupees providing the perfect fit, finish and style. They were proud of getting a bargain, and of giving their own name to the end result.

The 1960s was an era full of mischievousness and celebration in the arts, music and cinema. The period was characterised by freedom from restrictions and, in the fashion world, an acceptance of innovative types of material such as plastic and coated polyester. Tight-fitting kurtas⁽*⁾ and churidars⁽**⁾ and high coiffures were a trend among women.

The following decade witnessed an increase in the export of traditional materials, and the arrival in India of international fashion. Synthetics became trendy, and the disco culture affected the fashion scene.

It was in the early 80s when the first fashion store ‘Ravissant’ opened in Mumbai. At that time garments were retailed for a four-figure price tag. American designers like Calvin Klein became popular. In India too. contours became more masculine, and even the salwar kameez⁽***⁾ was designed with shoulder pads.

With the evolution of designer stores came the culture of designer fashion, along with its hefty price tags. Whatever a garment was like, consumers were convinced that a higher price tag signified elegant designer fashion, so garments were sold at unbelievable prices. Meanwhile, designers decided to get themselves noticed by making showy outfits and associating with the right celebrities. Soon, fashion shows became competitive, each designer attempting to out-do the other in theme, guest list and media coverage.

In the last decade of the millennium, the market shrank and ethnic wear made a comeback. During the recession, there was a push to sell at any cost. With fierce competition the inevitable occurred: the once hefty price tags began their downward journey, and the fashion-show industry followed suit. However, the liveliness of the Indian fashion scene had not ended — it had merely reached a stable level.

At the beginning of the 21st century, with new designers and models, and more sensible designs, the fashion industry accelerated once again. As far as the global fashion industry is concerned, Indian ethnic designs and materials are currently in demand from fashion houses and garment manufacturers. India is the third largest producer of cotton, the second largest producer of silk, and the fifth largest producer of man-made fibres in the world.

Indian garment and fabric industries have many fundamental advantages, in terms of a cheaper, skilled work force cost-effective production, raw materials, flexibility, and a wide range of designs with sequins, embroidery. In addition, that India provides garments to international fashion houses at competitive prices, with a shorter lead time, and an effective monopoly on certain designs, is accepted the whole world over. India has always been regarded as the default source in the embroidered garments segment, but changes in the rate of exchange between the rupee and the dollar has further depressed prices, thereby attracting more buyers. So the international fashion houses walk away with customised goods, and craftwork is sold at very low rates.

As far as the fabric market is concerned, the range available in India can attract as well as confuse the buyer. Much of the production takes place in the small town of Chapa in the eastern state of Bihar, a name one might never have heard of. Here fabric-making is a family industry; the range and quality of raw silks churned out here belie the crude production methods and equipment. Surat in Gujarat, is the supplier of an amazing set of jacquards, moss crepes and georgette sheers - all fabrics in high demand. Another Indian fabric design that has been adopted by the fashion industry is the ‘Madras check’, originally utilised for (he universal lungi, a simple lower-body wrap worn in southern India. This design has now found its way on to bandannas, blouses, home furnishings and almost anything one can think of.

Ethnic Indian designs with batik and hand-embroidered motifs have also become popular across the world. Decorative bead work is another product in demand in the international market. Beads are used to prepare accessory items like belts and bags, and beadwork is now available for haute couture evening wear too.

* knee-length tunics

** trousers

*** trouser suit

Complete the notes below. Choose ONE WORD ONLY from the passage for each answer.

Indian fashion: 1950-2000

1950s

• No well-known designers, models or (1)………………

• Elegant clothing cost little

• Women were pleased to get clothes for a (2)……………. price

1960s

• New materials, e.g. (3)……………. and polyester

• Fitted clothing and tall hairstyles

1970s

• Overseas sales of (4)…………….. fabrics rose

• Influence of international fashion

1980s

• Opening of fashion store in Mumbai

• Popularity of American designers clothing had a (5)…………….. shape

• Designers tried to attract attention by presenting (6)…………….. clothes and mixing with stars

1990s

• Fall in demand for expensive fashion wear

• Return to (7)………… clothing

plastic ethnic bargain labels masculine showy traditional

(1)
(2)
(3)
(4)
(5)
(6)
(7)

Passage 2

THE HISTORY OF SALT

Salt is so simple and plentiful that we almost take it for granted. In chemical terms, salt is the combination of a sodium ion with a chloride ion, making it one of the most basic molecules on earth. It is also one of the most plentiful: it has been estimated that salt deposits under the state of Kansas alone could supply the entire world's needs for the next 250,000 years.

But salt is also an essential element. Without it, life itself would be impossible since the human body requires the mineral in order to function properly. The concentration of sodium ions in the blood is directly related to the regulation of safe body fluid levels. And while we are all familiar with its many uses in cooking, we may not be aware that this element is used in some 14,000 commercial applications. From manufacturing pulp and paper to setting dyes in textiles and fabric, from producing soaps and detergents to making our roads safe in winter, salt plays an essential part in our daily lives.

Salt has a long and influential role in world history. From the dawn of civilization, it has been a key factor in economic, religious, social and political development. In every corner of the world, it has been the subject of superstition, folklore, and warfare, and has even been used as currency.

As a precious and portable commodity, salt has long been a cornerstone of economies throughout history. In fact, researcher M.R. Bloch conjectured that civilization began along the edges of the desert because of the natural surface deposits of salt found there. Bloch also believed that the first war - likely fought near the ancient city of Essalt on the Jordan River - could have been fought over the city's precious supplies of the mineral.

In 2200 BC, the Chinese emperor Hsia Yu levied one of the first known taxes. He taxed salt. In Tibet, Marco Polo noted that tiny cakes of salt were pressed with images of the Grand Khan to be used as coins and to this day among the nomads of Ethiopia's Danakil Plains it is still used as money. Greek slave traders often bartered it for slaves, giving rise to the expression that someone was "not worth his salt." Roman legionnaires were paid in salt - a salarium, the Latin origin of the word "salary."

Merchants in 12th-century Timbuktu - the gateway to the Sahara Desert and the seat of scholars - valued this mineral as highly as books and gold. In France, Charles

of Anjou levied the "gabelle," a salt tax, in 1259 to finance his conquest of the Kingdom of Naples. Outrage over the gabelle fueled the French Revolution. Though the revolutionaries eliminated the tax shortly after Louis XVI, the Republic of France re-established the gabelle in the early 19th Century; only in 1946 was it removed from the books.

The Erie Canal, an engineering marvel that connected the Great Lakes to New York's Hudson River in 1825, was called "the ditch that salt built." Salt tax revenues paid for half the cost of construction of the canal. The British monarchy supported itself with high salt taxes, leading to a bustling black market for the white crystal. In 1785, the earl of Dundonald wrote that every year in England, 10,000 people were arrested for salt smuggling. And protesting against British rule in 1930, Mahatma Gandhi led a 200-mile march to the Arabian Ocean to collect untaxed salt for India's poor.

In religion and culture, salt long held an important place with Greek worshippers consecrating it in their rituals. Further, in Buddhist tradition, salt repels evil spirits, which is why it is customary to throw it over your shoulder before entering your house after a funeral: it scares off any evil spirits that may be clinging to your back. Shinto religion also uses it to purify an area. Before sumo wrestlers enter the ring for a match - which is in reality an elaborate Shinto rite - a handful is thrown into the center to drive off malevolent spirits.

In the Southwest of the United States, the Pueblo worship the Salt Mother. Other native tribes had significant restrictions on who was permitted to eat salt. Hopi legend holds that the angry Warrior Twins punished mankind by placing valuable salt deposits far from civilization, requiring hard work and bravery to harvest the precious mineral. In 1933, the Dalai Lama was buried sitting up in a bed of salt. Today, a gift of salt endures in India as a potent symbol of good luck and a reference to Mahatma Gandhi's liberation of India.

The effects of salt deficiency are highlighted in times of war, when human bodies and national economies are strained to their limits. Thousands of Napoleon's troops died during the French retreat from Moscow due to inadequate wound healing and lowered resistance to disease - the results of salt deficiency.

Complete the summary.

Choose NO MORE THAN TWO WORDS from the passage for each answer.

essential element taxes portable commodity applications spirits

Salt is such an that people would not be able to live without it. As well as its uses in cooking, this basic mineral has thousands of business ranging from making paper to the manufacture of soap. Being a prized and , it has played a major part in the economies of many countries. As such, salt has not only led to war, but has also been used to raise by governments in many parts of the world. There are also many instances of its place in religion and culture, being used as a means to get rid of evil .

Passage 3

Biofuels backlash

A Biodiesel and bio-ethanol are cleaner, sustainable alternatives to petroleum-based fuels, which continue to deplete. Biofuels can be grown repeatedly from crops making them 100% renewable. Bio-ethanol is made in a similar way to ‘moonshine’ by fermenting cereals like corn and maize and then distilling the brew to evaporate the ethanol. Biodiesel is manufactured from the vegetable oils found in sunflower seeds, rapeseed and the oil palm. Gasoline (petrol) engines can be tuned to run on 90% ethanol blended with 10% petroleum and biodiesel is a direct replacement for existing road diesel.

B Carbon-dioxide is the principal man-made greenhouse gas. It traps heat in the atmosphere and increases global warming, causing polar ice to recede and sealevels to rise. Energy crops offer one solution to the deleterious effects of carbondioxide emitted from vehicle exhausts. Biofuels are 100% carbon-neutral, which means that there is no net gain or loss of carbon to the environment when the fuels are burnt. The carbon-dioxide does not add to the total amount in the atmosphere because the crops absorb the equivalent amount of carbon-dioxide by photosynthesis as they grow. Consequently, the ‘carbon footprint’ of gasoline- and diesel-powered vehicles can be reduced by switching to bio-ethanol or biodiesel. The latter burns more efficiently than petroleum diesel leaving less unburned hydrocarbons, carbonmonoxide and particulates, which means less atmospheric pollution as well as less global warming. Biofuels are less toxic than fossil fuels and biodegrade if spilt on the ground.

C Not everybody believes that biofuels are the ideal alternative to fossil fuels. The status of biofuels as environmentally friendly can be challenged on several counts. Firstly, to provide space for energy-crop plantations, trees are felled and burnt which creates a surplus of carbon-dioxide. Secondly, in tropical rainforests the loss of trees threatens biodiversity by destroying habitat. Thirdly, deforestation increases the evaporation of water from the ground, which can lead to extensive droughts. These deficits can be discounted if the energy crops are planted on existing agricultural land, but if this is done it reduces the supply of food crops, creating a surge in food prices. Furthermore, in developing countries people have barely sufficient food to eat and switching to fuel crops could threaten their meagre food supplies.

D To judge whether or not biofuels are genuinely a greener alternative to fossil fuels it is necessary to scrutinize the manufacturing steps. Whilst in theory, the carbon released by biofuels is equivalent to that removed from the atmosphere by the growing plants this does not reflect the true energy picture. Substantial amounts of nitrogen-based fertilizers are added to the soil to increase crop production. The process of manufacturing fertilizers consumes large amounts of energy in a process that burns natural gas and releases carbon-dioxide. What’s more, when fertilizers are added to the land the soil releases nitrogen oxides into the atmosphere. As an agent of global warming, nitrous oxide is about 300 times more potent than carbondioxide, and surplus nitrates can leach into nearby rivers and streams where they kill the fish. The ethanol industry generates additional carbon-dioxide because many of its manufacturing plants use coal-fired boilers, and fossil fuels are also consumed by the vehicles that transport materials to and from manufacturing sites. Whilst the transportation of petroleum-based fuels also burns fossil fuels, biofuels are supposed to offer a greener alternative to the fuels they intend to replace.

E Biofuels may not be a panacea for global warning but they can play a part in a sustainable energy programme. To reinforce their green credentials, energy crops should not be planted on land that was being used to produce food. New technologies can produce ethanol from the inedible parts of plants, or from grasses grown on wasteland that is unsuitable for food. Genetically modified plants may be the answer to increasing biofuel crop yields without the need for further land grab. Plant strains can be developed that require little in the way of fertilizers or irrigation. Biodiesel consumption may, in the future, extend beyond transportation to include heating oils for domestic boilers. Developing countries that grow biofuels should be allowed to benefit from the premium prices that fuel crops command, enabling farmers and their communities to reap economic and social benefits. Whatever the advantages and disadvantages of fuel crops it is clear that fossil fuels are a limited resource and cannot remain the mainstay of our economies indefinitely.

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